The O'Brien Files

On the first day of the Paro Tshechu

2009-07-11T11:46:00.000-07:00

More Paro Tshechu

2009-07-10T14:59:00.000-07:00

B is for Bhutan

At the Paro Tshechu

2009-07-09T11:55:00.000-07:00

April 6,2009, opening day of the Paro Tshechu (festival) at The Paro Dzong, one of the main social gatherings of the year.

Attendees are decked out in their finest garb, as crowds gather to watch the ceremonial dances.

Spinning the prayer wheel

2009-07-08T16:45:00.000-07:00

A devotee spins the prayer wheels while passing the temple.

Automated prayer using a string to spin the wheel.

Last looks at Zhiwaling before hitting the road

2009-07-06T06:04:00.000-07:00

Line of lamps in the foyer.

A Slogan for Bhutan - "Gross National Happiness"

2009-07-04T14:17:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Bhutan!

2009-05-24T17:25:00.000-07:00

The Paro airport is the only port of entry by air.

Checking in at the Zhiwaling Hotel on the outskirts of Paro.

View from room 36 at the Zhiwaling Hotel.

Arrival in Paro, Bhutan

2009-05-23T10:36:00.000-07:00

We arrive in one of the only two planes in Bhutan.

View of The Himalayas upon deplaning.

Bhutan: Kingdom in the Clouds

2009-05-08T18:33:00.000-07:00

On our Bhutan Expedition with National Geographic, April 3-15, 2009.
B is for Bhutan.

On the "road" again

2009-04-04T07:33:00.000-07:00

4/4/09 Here in the Novotel Hotel, Bangkok Airport, awaiting the start (tomorrow morning, in the lobby, at 4;30 am) of our flight into the mountain kingdom of Bhutan. Travel clue for followers: bring/use insect repellents (DEET (diethylmetatoluamide) is best), if you intend to dine here, because the mosquitoes who have managed to get into this grand hotel are hungry. Fortunately, we always pack DEET. Nevertheless, we were assured that malaria (aka mosquito) is not a problem in Bhutan at this time; BUT, if you go through Bangkok (BKK) bring your DEET!

Killed three mosquitos today and missed one at dinner this evening who was attacking our wine bottle.

White Rhinoceros - one of "The Big Five"

2009-03-27T10:28:00.000-07:00

On Safari in Mala Mala

2009-03-22T09:51:00.000-07:00

The enigmatic Spotted Hyena - an experiment in developmental biology

2009-03-21T13:56:00.000-07:00

This hyena was hanging around under the tree where the leopard had stashed his impala for safe keeping. Maybe the hyena will get lucky, should the impala fall?

A remarkable feature of Spotted Hyenas (but not Striped or Brown Hyenas; the Spotted Hyena is the only mammal known to sport such an anomaly!) is the elongated clitoris of females, roughly the size of the male's penis, through which she urinates, mates and gives birth! Check it out at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spotted_hyena

According to Stephen Glickman, an integrative biologist at UC Berkeley, birth of a 3-pound hyena cub is a cringe-inducing process - imagine pushing a golf ball through a soda straw - makes the downside of the female hyena's strange anatomy abundantly clear (Greg Miller, Science, 319: pp. 722-723, February 8, 2008). Hyena moms typically have two cubs in a litter, and about 60% of cubs born to a first time mom are stillborn. Amazing!

Visiting the ladies of Mala Mala

2009-03-07T13:32:00.000-08:00

On the trail of a leopard with an impala stash in a tree

2009-03-02T15:04:00.000-08:00

Incredible that a leopard could scale such a flimsy tree to stash his impala meal away from stalking hyenas.

Moon and Venus in close "approach" on February 27, 2009

2009-02-28T15:32:00.000-08:00

Photos shot with a Sony DSC-H1 camera.

Guided walking safari, MalaMala

2009-02-26T17:12:00.001-08:00

Impala on the Sand River and oxpeckers on the impala.

View of Main Camp, MalaMala, from the Sand River

A Nyala visits us in MalaMala Main Camp

2009-02-26T14:45:00.000-08:00

No fence or other barricade means equal access for man and beast at the Main Camp.

Some of the birds seen in the MalaMala Game Reserve

2009-02-24T13:53:00.000-08:00

The Yellow-billed Hornbill, aka "Flying Banana". During display calling pairs bow their heads and fan their wings.

The Pied Wagtail.

The White-fronted Bee-eater.

Giant Kingfisher.

Giant Kingfisher.

The Purple Roller. Their display flight involves spectacular aerial tumbling.

Tree Agama

2009-02-22T15:13:00.000-08:00

Blue tailed skink

2009-02-21T17:30:00.000-08:00

Well fed mothers nurse their cubs at night

2009-02-20T14:53:00.000-08:00

On our night game drive we found the lionesses again, this time with cubs nursing.

Tensions mount as lion jaws chomp closer

2009-02-19T17:07:00.000-08:00

We have a ring-side seat for the cataclysmic finish to the Nyala feast.

Six lionesses at lunch at last!

2009-02-17T17:15:00.000-08:00

Look how close we can get! We are admonished to remain seated in the profile of the vehicle,lest we stand for a better picture and be seen as an easy snack!

On the menu today was a Nyala.

Several lionesses "networking" for a meal

2009-02-16T17:59:00.000-08:00

Note how close we can get when we go "off road" in the brush.

Another Game Drive!

2009-02-14T15:59:00.001-08:00

Finishing breakfast and overlooking The Sand River.

Good to get an early start on the morning game drive.

Many interesting birds in view. This one is a Lilac-breasted Roller.

A Kudu!

This Kudu has a "passenger" on his back, an Oxpecker, looking for ticks and other delectables.

Elephants abound in the Mala Mala Game Reserve

2009-02-13T16:26:00.000-08:00

MalaMala Game Reserve is the largest private Big Five game reserve in South Africa . Comprising 13,300 ha, MalaMala shares a 19 km (12 mile) unfenced border with the world-renowned Kruger National Park and lies sandwiched between the National Park and the Sabi Sand Reserve.

On the Origin of Species, by means of natural selection

2009-02-12T07:58:00.000-08:00

February 12, 1809, Darwin's birthday, 200 years ago. His five years as naturalist aboard the HMS Beagle laid the foundation for his treatise on evolution. His remarkable insight is even more noteworthy when you consider that genes, DNA and bioinformatics were unknown at that time!

On our Expedition to Patagonia we retraced the voyage of the Beagle, through the Beagle Channel.

Note that Darwin has an island ("Isla") named after him, eastward from O'Brien Island, in the Beagle Channel.

Mala Mala Game Reserve, South Africa

2009-02-11T17:05:00.000-08:00

"Room" 3 at The Mala Mala Game Reserve camp. Tent camping was never like this!

A ninety minute flight from Johannesburg to the Geater Kruger National Park, and then a short drive to a classic thatched safari camp situated amid shady trees and manicured lawns on the bank of the Sand River. Let the game drives begin!

Two days at The Mala Mala Game Reserve

2009-02-01T14:55:00.000-08:00

View from room 3 at the Mala Mala Game Reserve camp. These antelopes are female Nyalas.

Blogundrum

2009-01-27T17:30:00.000-08:00

Having finished (essentially and prudently) blogging travels to Nepal (Spring, 2008) and Ireland (Fall, 2008) we now turn to other possible (past) adventures; South African Safari (Fall, 2008), Sicily, Cinque Terre, France, Germania, Sardinia, Corsica, Crete, Greece (with Santorini), Scotland, Denmark, Australia, New Zealand, Kangaroo Island, Safari to Tanzania, Expedition to Patagonia, Italy, Yugoslavia, Albania, Bonaire, Norway and Sweden, and then some hidden "travel jewels", etc.

We solicit input, with a vote for the next postings to be.

Personally, we may just default to one of the more recent, National Geographic Expedition to South Africa, before setting off to The Natioanal Geographic expedition to Bhutan (leaving April fool's day, 2009).

View from room 1723, Radisson Hotel Bangkok

2009-01-18T11:59:00.000-08:00

Last night of this expedition!

Visiting The Wat Arun in Bangkok

2009-01-17T16:08:00.000-08:00

Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn).

Admission ticket: 50 Baht.

Flip side of the ticket with some advice.

The temple is decorated with broken pottery ware that arrived in Bangkok as ballast.

Lost in translation.

Nepal - Sustainable Community Development Project

2009-01-11T18:16:00.000-08:00

This project will assist a total of 1385 families in the Chitwan, Nawalparasi and Palpa Districts of Nepal, which are characterized by widespread poverty, caste discrimination, and illiteracy, among other problems. The 475 original project families will receive 900 meat goats, 40 water buffaloes and fodder seed/saplings, while their respective local groups will receive funding to purchase fruit and vegetable seed/saplings. An additional 910 families will benefit though passing on the gift. All project participants will receive trainings on Heifer's 12 Cornerstones, self-help group management, improved animal management, kitchen gardening and organic farming, forage feed production, reproductive health and HIV/AIDS awareness. The project will also conduct Values-Based Literacy Program (VBLP) classes at 11 centers and organize youths into 17 groups for Cornerstones training. Heifer will also train Village Animal Health Workers (VAHW) and provide basic veterinary equipment and vet supplies. Exchange visits will be organized for project participants to learn from other Heifer project sites.

Go to:

http://www.heifer.org/site/c.edJRKQNiFiG/b.3638001/

Cruising Bangkok canals

2009-01-10T08:47:00.000-08:00

The sign reads "It is one of five Buddhist precepts to refrain from killing animals and fish. Please give generously when feeding the fish. All proceeds go towards the upkeep and maintenance of the Temple."

The Royal Thai Navy Headquarters, with The Wat Arun in the background

From Kathmandu to Bangkok, with time to spare

2009-01-09T17:36:00.000-08:00

"B" is for Bangkok.
We spend the afternoon exploring Bangkok canals, lined with "homes", restaurants and other attractions.

Poor dog has no front yard nor backyard!

After a handfull of breadcrumbs the surface erupts!

Passing the Balloon Gauntlet en route to Kathmandu

2009-01-07T11:16:00.000-08:00

A water balloon is launched!

A blue water balloon hits the van window just as it was being slammed shut to avoid serious bluing. Bonnie's Chitwan Jungle hat bears witness of a direct hit. Those in the seat in front of us bore the brunt of the assault.

Holi festival, March 21, 2008

2009-01-04T11:47:00.000-08:00

This festival of water and colors that falls between February/March is also known as “Phagu” in Nepal. This day is observed to rejoice the extermination of female demon Holika who together with her King brother conspired to kill his son Pralhad, an ardent devotee of Lord Vishnu. On this day, playful people especially the young ones wander through the streets in groups on foot or vehicles with various colors smeared all over them and the people in houses make merry throwing colors and water balloons at each other and also to these people on the streets. We had several blue water balloons hurled onto and into our van as we were underway.

Expedition leader and guides, Chris, Som and Jyambhang.

Som applies RED

Som gets red for Jim.

Tom and Mimi got redded too.

And so did Bonnie.

Colorful Holi kids on the prowl.

Kumari, The Living Goddess

2008-12-23T12:48:00.000-08:00

In Kathmandu we visited the location of Kumari, The Living Goddess.

But howabout a picture of a picture of Kumari?

LinkTV shows a short clip about the Kumari. You can view it by pasting the following link into your browser:

http://www.linktv.org/programs/livinggoddess

Living Goddess is a powerful portrait of a young girl venerated as a goddess growing up in a country on the verge of civil war. This is the story of Sajani, who is worshipped as one of three living goddesses in the Himalayan kingdom of Nepal, and whose peaceful existence is contrasted with violent political turmoil that threatens their traditional way of life. With beautiful imagery and an intimate story, Living Goddess unfolds a world of spirituality and political turbulence through the eyes of a young schoolgirl.
“A tiny girl offering blessings to prostrate adults is intercut with visceral, intense footage of street protests, baton charges and savage beatings."

Tharu people of the Terai lowlands

2008-12-18T05:51:00.000-08:00

The Tharu people are indigenous people living in the Surkhet Valley in the west mountain region, Chitwan Valley, Dang Valley,Deukhuri Valley,Sindhuli and Udyapur in Inner Terai Valleys of Nepal and the Terai plains on the border of Nepal and India.
They work usually as farmers or peddlers.

Recent medical evidence supports the common belief that the Tharu people, having lived in the swampy Terai region for centuries, have developed an innate resistance to malaria that is likely based on an unidentified genetic factor.

An innovative program in Nepal is helping to free young girls that live as modern day slaves.

Unable to make ends meet, many families in western Nepal have been forced to sell their daughters, some as young as six, to work far from home as bonded servants in private homes. With living conditions entirely at the discretion of their employers, these girls seldom attend school and are sometimes forced into prostitution.

PBS NOW traveled to Nepal during the Maghe Sankranti holiday, when labor contractors come to the villages of the area to "buy" the children. There, the Nepalese Youth Opportunity Foundation is trying to break the cycle of poverty and pain with an Enterprising Idea. They're providing desperate families with an incentive to keep their daughters: a piglet or a goat that can ultimately be sold for a sum equivalent to that of their child's labor.

You can view this PBS NOW production, "Daughters for sale", at the link below (you may have to paste it in your browser):

http://www.pbs.org/now/shows/414/index.html

Still snowing, in Southern Ireland

2008-11-16T18:14:00.000-08:00

View from room 8,Rockville B&B at Castleblaney; still snowing.

Tomorrow we head for the Premier Inn Dublin Airport (has "talking" elevators ) before our return flight.

Snowed out in search of stone circles and forts!

2008-11-16T17:17:00.000-08:00

Time to head south, when you have to scrape snow off road signs (on October 28)!

A local (of 28 years in the area) who stopped in his pickup to inquire why we were stopped at the intersection, couldn't recall seeing any stone circles in the area (we were within 5 km from some historic sites). He then engaged us in very enthuiastic conversation about the upcoming election, saying that he and all of Ireland are rooting for Obama.

So ends our search for antiquities on this, our 4th trip to the Emerald Isle. Heading south.

Where do we go from here?

2008-11-15T16:09:00.001-08:00

The Burren

2008-11-14T14:40:00.000-08:00

To the untuned eye The Burren looks like rubbly, useless land. Gen. Edmund Ludlow reported to Oliver Cromwell in 1651 that the Burren region "had not any tree to hang a man, nor enough water to drown him, nor enough earth to bury him". Revered in England, reviled in Ireland, Oliver Cromwell promulgated genocide of the Irish during that period.

O'Brien Country

2008-11-13T15:07:00.000-08:00

The Burren National Park, north easterly from the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. The Burren ("rocky land" in Gaelic) is a limestone karst region.

Several prehistoric burial tombs, like the Poulnabrone Dolmen bear testimony to past inhabitants.

This portal dolmen of Poulnabrone shows with what pomp and ceremony the prehistoric Burren-dwellers buried their chiefs.

Over the Pass into County Kerry

2008-11-12T16:30:00.000-08:00

Windswept!

O'Brien Castle on the Cliffs of Moher

2008-11-11T15:31:00.000-08:00

View of the Cliffs from the South window.

Recycle your bras here

2008-11-10T08:12:00.000-08:00

Bra recycle center in a Super Value store in Fermoy. "Please donate your old bras with 1 euro". A clever way to raise money for cancer care.

PV = C

2008-11-09T17:20:00.000-08:00

Did you recognize Boyle's Law?

Robert Boyle, from Lismore, Ireland is reknowned for his law relating the volume of a gas to the pressure (Pressure times Volume equals a constant).

Boyle slept here (and so did we, at the Pinetree Lodge B&B).

The Castleruddery Embanked Stone Circle

2008-11-09T10:28:00.000-08:00

We spotted a sign to this site on the way from Glendalough to Lismore. This site belongs to one of the rarest ceremonial monument types in Ireland. Sites of this type were being constructed in about 2500 BC, in the Late Neolithic and Early Bronze Period. The earthen bank, 30 m. in diameter, is lined on the interior with 29 upright stones. The entrance is flanked by two massive quartz boulders.

The Wicklow Heather Restaurant at Glendalough

2008-11-08T14:16:00.000-08:00

The proprietor has decorated the restaurant with lovely old books and even an "ancient" typewriter. There's bound to be a book of interest within reach from any seat in the restaurant.

Curiously, on our table was a book (rightmost), "The Psychology of Eating", by Lewis R. Wolberg, published in 1936. Relatively little good information was availablle on nutrition in those days. On page 189 Wolberg quotes Vance Thompson: "To a scientist there is nothing so trajic on earth than to see a fat man eating a potato".

Glendalough

2008-11-07T07:26:00.000-08:00

The Round Tower, visible in the distance, served as a landmark for approaching visitors, and for storage and a place of refuge in times of attack.

Another view of the Round Tower.

The entrance to the Round Tower is about 15 feet above the base.

A woman sketches the Round Tower.

All roads in the Wicklows lead to Glendalough

2008-11-06T06:48:00.000-08:00

Glendalough valley with two lakes is renowned for its early medieval monastic settlement founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. Before founding the monastery, he was said to have lived there in a hollow tree. The story goes that St. Kevin, good with wildlife (like St. Francis) was hopeless with women. When one over-zealous female follower came too close, the pious saint stung her cheeks with nettles to warn her off.

The gateway to the monastic city of Glendalough is one of the most important monuments, now totally unique in Ireland.

The paving of the causeway is still preserved, but very little remains of the enclosure wall.

Dangerous area in the Wicklows

2008-11-05T17:32:00.001-08:00

Note the blue rump tag on the sheep, indicating that it is the free-ranging property of the "blue Shepherd".

Free internet access for life in County Cork!

2008-11-04T17:34:00.000-08:00

My library card, issued in Skibbereen, County Cork, entitles me to lifetime free access to the internet in County Cork!

The Drombeg Stone Circle

2008-11-03T17:04:00.000-08:00

The Drombeg stone circle (also known as The Druid's Altar), is a recumbent stone circle located on the edge of a rocky terrace with fine views to the sea about 2km east of Glandore, County Cork, Ireland. The most westerly stone (1.9m high) has two egg shaped cup-marks, one with a ring around it. It is flanked by a pair of high axial portal stones, which provide a south-west axis, and orientate the monument in the direction of the setting sun during the midwinter solstice.

The site was excavated and restored in 1958. During this process a pot was found in the center of the circle, containing the cremated remains of a young adolescent wrapped with thick cloth. Carbon dating of samples taken from the site suggest that it was active c. 945 - 830 BC.

A sacrificial plate in the center

From Dublin, into the Wicklow Mountains

2008-11-02T15:36:00.000-08:00

In the foothills of the Wicklows, on the way to Glendalough.

Dublin, viewed from the Wicklow foothills.

Dublin Accommodation

In the Wicklow Mountains

Waterfalls upward on breezy Cliffs of Moher

2008-10-31T13:47:00.000-07:00

Strong onshore winds blow the falling water back up over the cliff.

Waterfall on Conor Pass

2008-10-31T01:25:00.000-07:00

Comin' down the north side of Conor pass on Dingle peninsula

2008-10-27T01:04:00.000-07:00

Bear left (but not too far) and keep an eye out for oncoming traffic!

The post of 10/26 has been updated with more music.

An Daingean (Gaelic for Dingle)

2008-10-26T01:25:00.000-07:00

Dined on Irish stew (Tom) and chargrilled trout (Bon) in John Benny Moriarity's pub in Dingle. After dinner entertainment featured traditional Irish music with guitar, accordion and pipes.

More music!

Detour! Kenmare flooded and access to Beara Peninsula jeopardized!

2008-10-24T11:49:00.000-07:00

I is for Ireland
Driving through gale force Irishwinds and rain with little chance for photographs without our "submersible" camera, we arrive in west Killarney, just ahead of the next tempest. Almost got to a new (old!) stone circle during a break in the clouds on the Beara, but gave up after a km slosh up a mountain creek, No Seamus sightings on the pass, but, upon inquiry regarding Seamus the shepherd at Murphie's Pub (at start of Healy's pass), made fleeting friends with 2 Guiness officiados (hick!) who discussed all the non-Seamus shepherds they recall.

Pictures of a large Ogham Stone we saw will follow upon our return.

Question for JGB:
Where are you and how did you find our blogsite? Thanks, TomandBon

Gale force winds and rain at The Drombeg Stone Circle

2008-10-23T06:17:00.000-07:00

Discovered/excavated in 1957, The Dromberg Stone Circle is one of Ireland's finest. dating from as long ago as 2000 BC, the larger circle of the complex has a sacrificial plate in the center, and alignment columns that capture a sun ray at winter solstice.

Picture to follow upon our return.

Off to Ireland, the Emerald Isle

2008-10-19T11:25:00.000-07:00

I is for Ireland.
Today, October 19, we leave for Dublin, Ireland. After touring the Wicklows, we'll head to the Beara Peninsula, in search of Seamus the shepherd, last seen in a mountain pass three years ago.

The safari team

2008-10-17T14:11:00.000-07:00

Posing with the safari gang in front of our DC-3 on the strip at Mashatu. The DC-3 was built in 1943 and it is still in good (vintage) condition for trips into the bush. P.s., can you spot Tom and Bonnie?

On Safari in Southern Africa!

2008-10-07T16:38:00.000-07:00

Dateline 9/20/08. View from room 456 in the Southern Sun Hotel, Johannesburg Airport, South Africa. We overnighted here before boarding a vintage DC-3 aircraft for flight into the Mala Mala Game Reserve. The water cooling towers visible in the distance are probably connected with coal-powered electicity generating (not nuclear, yet) facilities.

Blog update

2008-09-17T17:31:00.000-07:00

In the meantime, enjoy a feisty humming bird we saw at the feeder in North Carolina. He very aggressively guarded the feeder, under assault from other humming birds.
Still not able to clean out the debris and ruined equipment from the lab fire on August 29. We have to get "approval" from the UF insurance officials before we can remove damaged equipment, etc. Slowly beginning to replace essential items, and continuing cell culture and experiments from colleague's labs.

If we don't find opportunity to post again from the Nepal expedition tomorrow, we will resume after returning on Oct.1 from a National Geographic safari to South Africa(We're outbound at 11:05 am, Friday morning).

Seen in the Chitwan Jungle, from atop an elephant

2008-09-08T15:07:00.000-07:00

A Black Rhino

Another Black Rhino

A huge Python ahead!

Several peacocks in trees

Lab Fire

2008-09-04T16:31:00.000-07:00

While visiting relatives in Minnesota, I learned that a fire broke out in my research lab about 12:30 AM on October 29, 2008!
Ceiling sprinklers contained most of the fire, but the water running all night managed to flood one wing of the research building 2nd floor, and water leaked through fixtures onto the 1st floor, and even into the basement, flooding other labs and offices!

Check out the newpaper article about the fire at:
http://www.gainesville.com/article/20080829/NEWS/808290216/1105/NEWS&title=UF_lab_blaze_quickly_quenched
(You will have to copy the above link and paste it into your browser)

Elephant safari into the Chitwan jungle

2008-08-28T21:37:00.000-07:00

Having boarded our elephant we set out in search of Chitwan Jungle inhabitants, including Bengal tigers, black rhinos, pythons, and other assorted denizens, including spiders and ticks.

Through the river, into the jungle in Chitwan National Park

2008-08-14T17:50:00.000-07:00

This area of the Terai (Nepalese lowlands) is only accessible by land rover vehicles during the "dry" season. The indigenous people living in this area of the Terai, the Tharu, are isolated much of the year.

Chitwan National Park

Birds of Chitwan
Note that this sign at the entrance to The Chitwan National Park has the word "Royal" blackened out. The king, and most of the royal family were assasinated in 2001, and since the recent election of a Maoist leader, Nepal is no longer an autocracy.

A Himalayan tree, Duabanga grandiflora

2008-08-03T11:03:00.000-07:00

One of the Duabanga trees spotted on the way to Lumbini.

The large blossoms expand in April, emiting a foul odor.

Eurasian Griffons feast on remains of buffalo carcass

2008-07-30T11:35:00.000-07:00

Visiting the village of Dhungakhani ("Rock Mine")

2008-07-29T13:18:00.000-07:00

The village of Dhungakhari lies near a rock mine in in the rural area near Tansen.

Farming families in Dhungakhari grow fruit trees, graze buffalo and tend ancient terraces.

A view inside one of the homes

Waste from the toilet and buffalo dung is fermented in this fermenter to generate gas for heating and cooking.

A homemade broom lies on the swept floor

An Erythrina Stricta tree on their farmland

Blooms of the Erythrina Stricta tree

Visiting Lumbini, birthplace of Lord Buddha

2008-07-21T17:43:00.000-07:00

Via rickshaw for the last 100 meters.

The sacred tree where Buddha's mother rested before giving birth to Lord Buddha.

Placing an offering at the tree.

Near the shrine is the pool where Buddha's mother bathed before giving birth after her long journey.

Tibetan refugee community on the outskirts of Pokhara

2008-07-18T12:05:00.000-07:00

Tibetans fled the Chinese invasion of their homeland 50 years ago, taking refuge in this area on the outskirts of Pokhara.

Woven goods and souvenirs provide a source of income.

Might her dog become woven into a sweater?

Trek up Sarankot Hill for better view of the Himalayas

2008-07-09T19:01:00.000-07:00

Jyam Bhang, who accompanied Sherpas on the ascent of Mt. Everest, assists Bonnie on descent from the Saronkot Hill.

Young mother on Saronkot Hill, with 11 day-old infant. Something to think about - no running water, no transportation, miles of walking to any hospital or medical aid!

Dakshinkali Temple and ritual animal sacrifice

2008-07-03T15:23:00.000-07:00

Animals are cleansed in the Bagmati River before being led or carried to the sacrificial altar.

On the way to the sacrificial altar with his cleansed, pet rooster, this young Hindu gentleman feeds his pet with some final, few corn kernels.

One of the sacrificial altars, this one inscribed with a "male" skeleton.

Richard S. Ehrlich (at http://www.geocities.com/asia_correspondent) recounts
“In 1780, Nepal outlawed human sacrifice. Animals, however, are allowed to be killed to satisfy the goddess Kali, and for other ceremonies. Devotees who cannot afford to sacrifice a goat, pig, lamb or waterbuffalo, offer a less expensive chicken or duck. Carcasses remain the property of the believers who brought them, and are carried home or taken to the chamber where the temple's butchers skin and debone the meat for a small fee according to devotees' requests.

Everyone seems to think the slaughters will please the gods and grant a boon to whoever makes such an offering. Animal sacrifice is common in Nepal, the world's only Hindu kingdom. Nepalis kill animals to sanctify weddings, new homes or religious festivals. Upon purchasing a new car or truck, the owner sometimes splashes its exterior with fresh animal blood, to ensure the vehicle doesn't crash whenever it is driven.

Many times, pooja is merely symbolic -- an offering of butter, yogurt, money or flowers. When an animal is to be sacrificed, however, it should be an uncastrated male which is killed, apparently as a display of life's potency.

At Dakshinkali's temple complex, set amid trees in a tiny valley between two mountains, swarms with men, women and children carrying their squirming prey. Hindu symbols, including brass tridents and snakes, adorn the shrine's walls and canopy.

Some devotees don't wait to return home to dine on the dead meat. Instead, they picnic in the forest next to the shrine, roasting their meals on campfires while the slitting and hacking continues below amid clanging of bells and shouts of prayer. “

On the road again in Nepal

2008-06-22T14:55:00.000-07:00

Head-on collisions are not that uncommon on the narrow, winding mountain roads in Nepal. Here we pass two trucks that have collided. The secret to survival passing on blind mountain curves is to lay on the horn to warn attentive truckers that you will be in their lane when they round the bend! We made it - several times, thanks to our veteran van driver!

On the road again

2008-06-17T18:12:00.000-07:00

Hindu holy men - ascetics

2008-06-10T22:10:00.000-07:00

A different kind of temple

2008-06-08T14:53:00.000-07:00

Some Hindu temples are adorned with erotic carvings, in celebration of procreation, birth and continuity.

The Nyatapola Temple in Bhaktapur

2008-06-01T13:36:00.000-07:00

Amidst demonstrations and rallies, the temple is being decorated with pro-Maoist flags and banners in advance of the upcoming national election.

Roadside hair washing

2008-06-01T10:32:00.000-07:00

Some women use mud to wash their hair, as soaps contain animal fat.

Room 33 at the Fishtail Lodge in Pokhara, Nepal

2008-05-28T17:16:00.000-07:00

The view from room 33. Annapurna 1 and Machhapuchhre ("Fishtail" in Nepalese) mountains in the Himalayan range

At 26,545 feet, Annapurna 1, on the left, is the tenth highest peak in the world.

Nepalvision 4

2008-05-25T16:59:00.001-07:00

"N" is for Nepal

Pigeonomics/pigeonology

2008-05-23T18:37:00.000-07:00

Pigeons roost each evening at Hotel Vajra.
Prime single roosts (evidenced by droppings trajectories) are above and below windows.
Communal roosts (first come, first accommodated) are at a premium. Note that each are just outside a wing-beat from their neighbor, except an opening to the right, and an ongoing dispute to the left (blurred wing beating).

A "leaf" drops in for lunch

2008-05-22T17:13:00.000-07:00

Lunchtime at Mike's Restaurant in Pokhara, Nepal

Sensing that the butterfly in disguise was after the salty, colorful catsup, Martha attracted the visitor to her finger.

She was right! You can see the catsup being sucked up into the proboscis. No doubt this "leaf" has dined on catsup at Mike's before.

Who understands this display next to a shoe store?

2008-05-21T18:21:00.000-07:00

Like beasts of burden?

2008-05-18T18:41:00.000-07:00

Nepalese women do "heavy" work. At a rebuilding site in Tansen men load bricks into their backpacks for transport.

Visiting the missionary-supported regional hospital in Tansen

2008-05-17T15:32:00.000-07:00

Snake bite! What kind of snake was it?

The real thing, in case of doubt.

A guide to estimate blood loss in trauma patients.

Room 101, Srinagar Hotel, Tansen, Nepal

2008-05-13T16:32:00.000-07:00

We stayed two nights in this room, where the American Ambassaor to Nepal stayed. Decorative bars on the window!

Nepalvision 3

2008-05-08T17:05:00.000-07:00

The Presidential Highway

2008-05-07T15:30:00.000-07:00

"N" is for New Zealand.

In a break from the Nepal Expedition, we post "The Presidential Highway", linking the towns of Clinton and Gore,on the South Island of New Zealand. We found this sign while touring the South Island after the International Ribosome 2002 Meeting, hosted by Warren Tate in Queenstown, NZ.

Festival of Samyak Mahadan

2008-04-30T13:17:00.000-07:00

The Newari Festival of Samyak Mahadan occurs once every five years. On March 11, 2008, we were fortunate to be present for the celebration at Nagbahal in Patan city, near the Patan Durbar Square.

Nepalvision 2

2008-04-28T14:50:00.000-07:00

Money changer

2008-04-28T14:35:00.000-07:00

Visions of Nepal

2008-04-25T15:57:00.000-07:00

Cotton candy for sale in Kathmandu

2008-04-24T05:13:00.000-07:00

How many rupees for a bag?

Monks in front of a Monastery near the Boudha Stupa in Kathmandu

2008-04-23T05:53:00.000-07:00

The Boudha Stupa, with prayerflags flying

Check out his bag (left-click to enlarge image).